Chinampa-Refugio visit - 04/05/21

As my friend Brett and I drove up to the Axolotl Conservation centre in UNAM university, about 45 minutes drive from the centre Mexico City, it struck me how different it felt - although we were so close to downtown. It smelt rural and not like a park, even though Xochimilco seems to exist amongst urban sprawl, when looked at on a map.

We met Carlos and Miguel, conservation biologists from UNAM, who work hard to promote and protect the Xochimilco wetland ecosystem. They do this by building relationships with the remaining farmers (Chinamperos), who work the land of the Pre-Columbian floating islands (Chinampas). The 'bottom-up' conservation collaboration involves reinstating a positive 'feedback-loop', to encourage Chinamperos to return to traditional organic farming methods. This means higher quality produce to sell for an increased price, as well as being guardians of the ecosystem. These positive changes are shadowed by the increasing urbanisation, football fields and rubbish in the canals. But, as I discussed with Carlos over the course of the day - there is hope for the state of Xochimilco, and for the critically endangered Mexican Axolotl.

Setting off at 8am, in punted boats through the canals.

One of the wider channels, before we entered the canal system.

Carlos (standing) and Brett, as we pass a Chinampero at work. Unfortunately since the 'Green Revolution', many Chinampas rely on pesticides and fertilisers to grow their crops. This predictably then filters into the wetland ecosystem and does not do well for the health of the delicate web of species. Many traditional methods (including MILPA sisters planting) have been lost for increased yields at the expense of soil degradation. However, Carlos is working hard to reverse this.

We spotted a plethora of bird species, including green heron pictured above.

A cow at the edge of a football pitch. Cows are profitable acquisitions, and provide organic fertiliser for the Chinampas. Usually families buy one or two, to raise over a longer period of time.

The more quiet avenues looking glorious in the morning light.

Until you begin to look more closely at the plastic trash that spews over the green water plants. 

We arrived at one of the Chinampa-Refugios, on the land of Chinamperos who have been working with Carlos and the UNAM team for over 10 years. They have an established refugio. This means that the water running around their floating island, irrigating their crops, is filtered at the entrance, and therefore clean.

The clean water is achieved through a indigenous plant barrier (sometimes metres long), a mass of reeds and underwater plants. This has taken years to establish and grow! The plants are able to clean the water naturally, and also provide a wall to keep introduced fish, including carp and tilapia, out.

Carlos showing us the transparency of the water inside the Chinampa-Refugio.

... as well as the micro-bugs and insects that exist in the water, a real testament to the re-flourishing of the ecosystem web of life within the refugios! Plants provide home and food for the insects, which increase the chances of small fish, and Mexican Axoltols have a safe haven to grow and reproduce.

Carlos demonstrating how this methodology of adapting and growing an indigenous plant barrier has been a work in progress, collaborating quite literally with the Chimaperos. Their first efforts including making a rock enforced bridge and man-made barrier (which was not successful in filtration or keeping the tilapia out). The initial scheme was also solely based on axolotl conservation, but they realised the need for longevity, and also the preservation of the Chinampas themselves, through a switch to organic farming methods - to gain new market value for their produce.

A beautiful diverse agricultural practice, with healthy produce - and no pesticides! Companion planting is key to traditional methods in Xochimilco.

One of the most fertile soils, its dark colour means plants grow with ease.

The green surface of the refugio is actually a benefit, the green duck weed protects the life underneath.

The refugio opens up into a larger pond area. They have many reported sightings of healthy axolotls!

This is at a neighbouring Chinampa. Carlos and the team are working to establish a new Chinampa-Refugio. They create a hole with rocks to initially help filter, before planting. This is a poco-a-poco project. It cannot be rushed. It relies on natural processes and growth to be most effective.

We met up with Miguel and the rest of the team, to collect water and lettuce samples.

A coot flapping away from the boats!

The not-so clean water next to the non-organic lettuce Chinampa. I noticed immediately the feeling of the monoculture lettuce grown in plastic, compared to the freshness of the traditional organic Chinampa we had just visited.

Water samples being collected. Even without testing it was apparent the difference was huge between the plant filtered water Chimapa-Refuge to the regular water.

Collecting lettuces for testing. (They will also collect a sample from an organic farm, to compare results of toxin levels.)

Miguel, another passionate scientist working with Luis Zambrano and the UNAM team, to help preserve and protect Xochimilco, the Chinampas and the Mexican Axolotls.

One of the main threats to the Chinampas is the polluted water, which has meant a lot of Chinamperos have had to give up their lands - which has been lost to either urbanisation, or football fields. Rented for a high price at weekends, and attracting hundreds of cheering and often litter throwing spectators - the pitches aren't good news for wildlife. The grass monoculture provides no flowers for insects and is often sprayed with pesticides. The sheer number of people at weekends also disrupts local species.

Carlos showing us the clean water at the second Chinampa-Refugio, owned by Pedro the Chinampero. 

Even in the bucket you can see the transparency!

A welcoming and garden-like oasis of a Chinampa

With Aztec treasures found in the canals proudly on display. I'd like to think it is a nod to the traditional heritage felt. It was a privilege to visit this beautiful Chinampa! 

And many healthy Mexican Axolotls also live in this clean filtered refugio.

Pedro the Chinampero!

Unfortunately, with a bittersweet end to the trip, as we got back into the boats to return to UNAM, Carlos and Miguel pointed out the hundreds of baby fish just by the refugio. Possibly thousands of juvenile tilapias (introduced fish in 1986 by the U.N., to give protein to locals) - fish that destroy everything in their path! Eating axolotl eggs and young as well as being competition for smaller fish, tilapia are one of the major threats to the Mexican Axolotl in Xochimilco. They cannot be controlled, but at least the strategy of the collaborative efforts of scientist and Chinampero has meant the Mexican Axolotls have a sanctuary - even if they are only pockets for now.

Carlos has high hopes for the Chinampa-Refugio project. He is working with a group of farmers to create an alliance and co-op, to share skills in marketing, distribution and development to get the organic produce to the market in CDMX. If people here only knew they could actively help the axolotls by buying certain produce, I am certain it would become more popular. 

They are even producing a certification for the Chinamperos who are the guardians of the Chinampa-Reufgios, with a logo of an axolotl and maize. I can't wait to see it in action. The best way to help the axolotls is to buy the Chinampero's organic produce. I hope to post a list of organisations that are directly involved with the amazing work Carlos, Migual and Luis are doing, soon. 

Thank you for reading!